Three types of waves:
1) Reef break: breaks over a coral reef
2) Beach break: Breaks over a sandy seabed
3) Point Break: breaks over a rocky point
After searching for explanations of the three I think its best to show it in pictures!
Beach Break:
Reef Break:
Point Break:
Surfboard Designs:
Tail Shapes:
What makes tails different?
Width! A wider tail will allow you to catch the most waves because it lifts as the wave does. A narrower tail will allow for more control in bigger waves but may drag in smaller surf.
1) Round: increased surface area helps give the board more lift in the tail and allows for a looser, more turnable board
2) Rounded Pin: for smoother turns, medium size surf
3) Pin tail: Maximum control, Big waves
4) Square: a lot of surface area, speed, often times the squash is better with rounded ends; square tail tends to “bite”
5) Squash: a lot of surface area like a round tail, very responsive, helps maintain speed
6) Swallow tail: Allows for plaining speed and lift, good in small waves
7) Bat tail: acts as a swallow tail with possibly more stability because of the center point, more of a cosmetic tail
8) Diamond tail: Has been replaced by the squash, soften up the square tail while maintaining its speed
Bottom contours:
Flat: Just flat, fastest shape, good in small waves
Single Concave: Channels water to the fins, best in larger surf
Double Concave: channels water to both fins, allows for a looser ride and the best turns
Vee: mostly in the tail, good for rail to rail turns, larger waves.
Rail Designs:
Soft VS Hard Rails
Round Rail: half circle
Down Rails: rail that comes to an edge at the bottom of the board
Rolled Rails: comes to an edge at the bottom and then rolls under the
Egg Rails: rails that are drawn out like the top of an egg
50/50: rail where the widest point of the rail is at the mid point
60/40: rail where the widest point is towards the bottom 60% top, 40% bottom
Shaping
Tools to shape:
1) Tape measure (1/4-1/8th inch)
2) Pencil
3) square
4) hand saw
5) brick (hold down board)
6) calipers (to measure thickness)
7) soft sanding block
8) hard sanding block
9) 40 grit, 80 grit screen, 80 grit, 180 grit
10) surform
11) planer
12) level
13) dragon skin
14) block planer
15) foam rubber (cut squares with razor blade)
16) custom rail tool (surfoam @ 30 degrees) made by shapers
Use heavier tools, will hit high spots will make smooth passes.
Safety:
Wear dust mask, goggles and chemical mask for fiberglassing.
Blank:
Hardest foam on outside of blank
Get blank closest to finished surfboard
Check foam, make sure blank isn’t twisted
Check stringer, make sure its strait
Template:
Free hand template, put on your three measurements, put nails in and trace curve.
Rocker:
Curve on bottom of board
Most important factor, will determine how board will surf. (work the most on)
Entry rocker – Planing – exit rocker
entry rocker is longest
Planing area is at the center on smaller waves, you will be standing further forward pumping through.
CONTINUOUS smooth curve.
Types of bottom: Flat, concave, V
Fastest bottom : flat
Foil:
flotation for paddling
thickest area between feet ( best for surfing )
thickest area under chest ( best for paddling)
want nose to be light ( board pivots faster )
Rails:
Tucked under edge – hard area by fins, soft as it goes up
WIDTH: 2” mark and 4” mark (tells you how far to go for railbands with planer)
THICKNESS: 1 3/8” at center 1” at nose and tail
polish board (circles w/ sand paper)
Shape like water
The new board will have the center point closer to the nose of the board, the width and length of this center plaining surface will be greater allowing for more speed. The nose and tail rocker will be less drastic than a typical board, this will make the bottom contour flow evenly, allowing for water to pass over at a greater speed, making the board move faster over water.
